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| zaboz |
 Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 2:54 pm |
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Joined: 15 Feb 2005
Posts: 314
Location: madison, wi
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| Holy crap, I had no idea of what I was in for! First I give props to the work you guys have showed in the last week or so, you make it look easy!! Things I've learned this weekend. 1. When its freezing ass cold, dont bother, just go in the house and watch tv or something, spray paint gets gooey, uneven, and does'nt dry. 2. Prep the decks, dont be half assed like me (I just practiced on an old powell blank popsicle and the paint was parting and pooling like crazy!) Sand that bitch down!! 3. Be careful of spraying to thick on blue painters tape. It melts and gets goo on your other paint and screws it up. Later, after its all dry, I'll post a pic and you all can laugh at my lameness. |
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| AlvaCollector |
| Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 4:53 pm |
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Joined: 26 Jul 2004
Posts: 3436
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| Dude, don't sweat it we're all guilty of sharing lame shit now and again. |
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| zaboz |
| Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 7:38 am |
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Joined: 15 Feb 2005
Posts: 314
Location: madison, wi
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Hahaha, like I said, lame. I went to the park last nite, so my new fancy graphics got a bit mussed up, oh well. |
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| mohawksteve |
| Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 8:33 am |
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Joined: 12 Jan 2005
Posts: 320
Location: Orlando, FL
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| ha better than i would have done i cant even make the damn stencil |
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| sinart |
| Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 10:59 am |
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Joined: 26 Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Location: LA
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| That's not bad for a first attept...but yeah, it's supposed to be between 68-85 degrees for spray paint to set & dry right...if it's too cold, the pigment will not mix with the carrier correctly (thus, puddles/blotches). If it's too hot, it will never harden (it will be more like rubber). |
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make your left brain suffer... |
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| SkateboardHouseUSA |
| Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:29 am |
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Joined: 26 Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Location: Florence, KY
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what is the best kind of paint to use for stencils?
do you cover with a clear coat afterwards? |
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| sinart |
| Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 11:54 am |
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Joined: 26 Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Location: LA
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| enamel, but not Krylon. usually, the cheap "hardware store' brand works well...Krylon is too rubbery. you don't have to seal it if you're painting on top of the factory seal on a blank. If the wood is raw, seal it first, then paint it. The sealant is so no moisture gets into the wood, not to "protect" the graphics...the only thing that will do that are some good ol rails. Hope that helps. |
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make your left brain suffer... |
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| SkateboardHouseUSA |
| Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 5:16 pm |
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Joined: 26 Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Location: Florence, KY
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| thanks for the tips sinart |
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| xholdenx |
| Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 5:33 pm |
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Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 8
Location: Louisville, KY
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if I can enter some advice regarding aerosol products that I've gleaned from activities other than skateboarding...
1. the temperatures mentioned by sinart regarding carrier/pigment mixing refer mostly to can temperature, not necessarily air temp, so you can warm up your cans in your house.
2. the mixing ball will help not only solution, but also aerosolization, which is to say, shake it well, and that'll help prevent pooling and drooling.
3. high can pressure will prevent drips.
4. go to a store in the know (some small business hip hop clothing stores will have them) and buy tips for graffiti writers. If using krylon, ask for german caps, if using rustoleum ask for rusto.
5. IMHO rusto is the best paint for a variety of uses. lots of pretty colors, good paint consistency, even can pressure, and they sell it at meijer, which is open 24 hours a day. unless you want a good flat black, then get krylon ultra flat black. it is difficult to get it to run out on you, and it smells good to boot.
hope some of that helped. have fun! |
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positively,
Jesse |
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