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Five Points Skateboards |
Posted: Thu May 26, 2005 10:17 am |
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ORDER OF THE SKULL
Joined: 12 Mar 2003
Posts: 4167
Location: Columbus, OH
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basically. I used one 2X10. cut the frame out of it. Used the other piece (jig frame) as the jig sides. put some crossbeams in and added dowel rods for registration. does that make sense? |
_________________ Tim
Five Points Skateboards |
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stoney66 |
Posted: Thu May 26, 2005 10:53 am |
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Joined: 05 Jul 2004
Posts: 209
Location: Cola, SC
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OK - I gotcha.. Are you using simple hinges like from Lowes' or jiffy hinges of some type? |
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skinny |
Posted: Sat May 28, 2005 7:34 pm |
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Joined: 12 Sep 2004
Posts: 2706
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Larry,
I really dig this!
good job.-Milt |
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SaintMAYHEM |
Posted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 11:15 pm |
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Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Posts: 4
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None of the Images Show can you Repost them Please?
stoney66 wrote: So who here is actually using bent screens? Well, I decided to give it a go...
Love how it fits the decks just right!!
What a bitch it was streching this thing. Should be printing something within the next week or so (need to build a jig to hold this thing). Man what a monster!! I used the Donald20 plans, with some alteration for the decks we are using. I'm getting a friend to CNC two of these for my registration:
Hopefully it will all work. Anyone else doing anything like this? I know Trashcan hooked it up w/ a chair backing, but is anyone using this style of screen? How is printing on something this big?... I need longer arms.
~larry
~Flatbottom Skateboards~ |
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kc_curtis |
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:15 am |
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Joined: 07 Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Here is my first attempt at curved screens....
Looking from the hinged end, the screen is locked into place over a deck...
from the clamped end...
Deck mount system with dowel rods...
The finished product. A bit of work on the screen and some more practice and the fun begins!
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Last edited by kc_curtis on Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:38 pm; edited 1 time in total _________________ Peace
http://www.youtube.com/ckh66
http://www.dairdevilboards.com |
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hank1113 |
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:25 am |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
Posts: 3639
Location: Richmond Va
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nice! I built a tip to tail screen from the DIY plans on the net but it is too short for my liking. gonna make it longer and wider and then attempt to burn an image.
at the moment I am making a rig just for doing tail or nose graphics. I dig the older style prints with separate images on the nose and tail. I plan on doing the tip to tail again after I get done playing around with my nose/tail rig.
hank |
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kc_curtis |
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:44 pm |
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Joined: 07 Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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Hank, I agree on the length, needs more room at the ends, I am going to add about 4 to 6 inches to my next one. My width is 13 inches and seems to be good. When I lock my frame over a deck (I made curved screen frame using the decks I was printing as a stencil for the curved parts) it is tight every where on the deck with the exception of about a half inch from the edge of the deck where it sits about a quarter inch above the deck...
I used the cheap speedball ink for my first run, now I am going to move to Nazdar 2700. Any tips on how to get the ink to flow better (mixture ratio??) and be more glossy?
I know my technique for spreading the ink was lacking, I found some great info last night on proper direction, etc.
I also have an issue with ink getting on the bottom of my screen so I have to wipe it off prior to doing the next deck? Is this a common problem?
Thanks Hank, |
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hank1113 |
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:56 pm |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
Posts: 3639
Location: Richmond Va
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with the 2700 being water based you have to flood your print area in between pulls or it will dry super fast. I dont use anything to thin it since I only do 10 boards or so at a time. as I do more I will be adding thinner to keep it from drying. as far as increasing the gloss, I am not sure what to tell you. some of the other nazdar inks are glossier but require more effort and what not to clean them up. I like the 2700 since it is quick to clean and not to pricey! |
Last edited by hank1113 on Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:59 pm; edited 1 time in total _________________ www.shipyardskates.com |
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hank1113 |
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:59 pm |
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Joined: 30 Apr 2009
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Location: Richmond Va
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kc_curtis wrote:
I also have an issue with ink getting on the bottom of my screen so I have to wipe it off prior to doing the next deck? Is this a common problem?
that is from your screen touching the deck. set it up .25" above the deck you are screening, grip the squeegee by the blade and have at it. it takes some time to get use to but it can be done. you may have to experiment with screen tensions to get it to where you can screen "easily" but have enough tension to keep the detail. I get my flat screens stretched at "low" tension (8 newtons) and after a few runs they work pretty good.
hank |
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kc_curtis |
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:36 pm |
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Joined: 07 Feb 2008
Posts: 28
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The way I have my "rig" set up now, when the screen is clamped, it is stretched tight over a deck, then I have to hold down on the frame, release the clamps and quickly lift the screen off the deck.....surely this could not be causing me any problems [he says laughing].
If I don't clamp the screen down over the deck, it only rests on the deck in the very center, and my art is off to one edge...would I be better off not using the clamps? (I know, just try it right??? LOL)
Also, do I need to "bake" the decks after they are inked to set the ink in the wood?
And on the frames being longer... would you just continue the angle of the tail/nose, or would you flatten it out? I am thinking just continue the angle on down a few more inches but that could get "interesting" with adjusting the setup for that tall of a screen?
Thanks Hank, and your avatar makes me hungry!!!! |
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